Wheels of Africa

Such a wonderful experience I had today, perhaps it's a fitting time to break out of my long lapse from blogging with you all. Of course there is so much to tell from the last months captured in notes and ruminations stashed in dusty corners throughout my computer, I sincerely hope I can begin sharing it again with my lingering audience.

Today I attended a meeting of the fledgling club Wheels of Africa while tucked beneath a tree overlooking a pond of peddle-boats (how fitting) in Nairboi's beautiful and massive downtown park. Thirty cyclists occupied their piece of grass and outlined in their incredible, humble Kenyan eloquence, full of analogies, morals, and truisms, their passion for cycling and the ways it has shaped their lives. Facing a group familiar to me almost exclusively from competitive cycling events, I was stunned and my heart soared as each and every one described cycling as a lifestyle with a deepness that would impress even the most dedicated Western cycling evangelist. Having arrived early ( in Kenya that's 15 after the scheduled start time) I had a chance to talk to Raymond, the group's founder, and his recruited management consultant cum co-organizer, ________ (her name is currently escaping me). They outlined for me the themes that had emerged from their first gathering and I shared my reservations about my observed fixation on competition amongst Kenyan cyclist. As the a sea of logo spattered cycling jerseys swelled, I braced myself for the fallout of imported American commercial cycling literature and culture. That is bikes as toys, bikes for competition, bikes as status symbols, bikes for anything but that for which they are best: LIFESTYLE. But instead of being knocked flat by my fears, I came to find this incredible undercurrent of complex understanding that a bicycle is truly a vehicle for citizenship. The same sense of citizenship that has been gripping the American cycling movement and is now sanctified by the phrase “yes we can”, is glowing brightly in Kenya. I now know that here too the bicycle is worn as the global citizen's badge of honor standing resolutely against the tides of self-serving politics and institutionalized injustice. To these Kenyans cycling was youth empowerment, livelihoods, a national transportation agenda, environmental stewardship, an undeveloped economic sector, a public health solution... it is everything but training schedules and gram counting. Their slogan: Redefining mobility.

Now, a lot of hot talk can quickly find itself untethered and drifting inevitably towards that overflowing scrap yard of good ideas with no champions. Its a place that Nairobi's cyclists know well and something that was articulated during a recap of previous attempts at cyclist solidarity in the city. I myself, having ridden the highs and lows of group organizing, have little patience for big ideas without stalwart leadership but here too, I couldn't have been more impressed. Raymond, heading up the leadership department, sprang gracefully into introductions, transitioned smoothly into ground rules, and rounded out nicely with his first initiatives on behalf of the organization. These include 1) recruiting the full support of the chief of police to engage his force in a cycling rights to the road workshop and 2) convincing the writer of the Sunday column Motoring (that's right) in one of the country's top newspapers to do a feature on cycling and Wheels of Africa. Not bad for a couple weeks on the job.

I'm delighted to report that I will be using my graphics skills in the marketing department for the group logo and first run on t-shirts. I'm even more delighted to say that I'll be catalyzing Nairobi's first Critical Mass on December 19^th at 4pm (avoiding the holiday difficulties on the 26^th). Come and join us! On the 16^th we'll be joining Eco-Challenge to plant trees with youngsters at a school on the outskirts of the city.

Two members are just starting a mobile repair shop. There is talk of leading a cycling trails development initiative as a component of a forest reclamation project within the city limits (maybe IMBA would like to help us with that). Particularly brilliant, someone suggested that we initiate a club touring tradition as a sort of international forum for cyclists. And, taking it a step further, support the tours with club gear allowing the tours to stake camp wherever they travel while also accommodating the many cyclists who can't afford hotel rooms.

I can hardly restrain my anticipation for the 19^th and the opportunity to put Nairobi's cycling network to the test. I believe we could have 200 people for CM's debut. I also now have a new grand vision for Worldbike, the Kibera workshop (now up and running by the way), and Wheels of Africa. Here it is. The greatest challenge that this club is going to face is that most cyclists in Kenya have no money. Club membership fees will be almost non-existent and the ability of people to participate even in very low cost events will always be an issue causing contention. In other words, Wheels of Africa needs a funding source if its going to succeed. Raymond has already beautifully detailed his reluctance to play the donor game and outlined his vision of using mobile bicycle-mounted advertising as a revenue source. This is an idea that I discussed with George Njuki (my veteran cyclist friend mentioned in previous posts) a couple months back and which has been circling in conversations within the context of Worldbike's project ever since. George and I were also hot on the idea of using pedicabs as a means of employing the youth. My vision now is to use the Kibera workshop to build the rickshaws and mobile billboards that are owned and operated by Wheels of Africa and driven by youth. The proceeds would fund the operations of Wheels of Africa while a placard mounted on each vehicle would provide an unmatched opportunity for club publicity. Because Wheels of Africa is a citizen organization, passengers will have even greater incentive to utilize their services. Finally, in order to retain drivers and promote discipline, the group can use an earn-a-bike incentive program that will provide bikes to responsible and committed drivers.

I couldn't have been more impressed with the turnout at this first meeting and couldn't be more excited to share with you of the coming developments stemming from what I hope has been a historic moment. To be continued....

More designs.

Over the last couple months I've been so lucky as to have been contacted by numerous people interested in being involved in the project's design process. This post is intended to show some of my more recent thinking and to aid in those ongoing e-mail conversations. I hope it is likewise of interest to the masses particularly those shadowy home-builders who stealthily pass through this site without leaving a trace. If you can't read the text in the drawings, don't worry, just check them out in higher res here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27342523@N06/sets/72157607517597124/

Trailer Hitch:
Emphasis is on ease of construction combined with rapid hitching and unhitching. The hitch is inspired in part by that used by the Center for Appropriate Transport (http://catoregon.qwestoffice.net/hpm/hauler.htm)
Rickshaw with Gears:
This one is fun because it would be super easy to build in the U.S. using go-kart parts. You can get axles and sprockets and brakes from any go-kart dealer though the sprocket "blanks" here (http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gokart_alumsprkt_40f.cfm) would be the best. And you can get bearing pillow blocks from the likes of Northern Tool. Spoked wheels would be the only challenge and you might have to use ones intended for ATVs. Here in Nairobi there are some 64 spoke rickshaw wheels with robust hubs so I'm in good shape. The real key to this design is the introduction of gears (so simple) because that is the major concern expressed when rickshaws are discussed amongst bicycle taxi drivers. With the second leading cause of death in Uganda (second to malaria) being accidents on motorcycle "boda boda" taxis, these might have a place in the transportation mix. Then again, the attraction of the motorbikes is rapid transit through congested streets which these might not be able to provide. Regardless, they do have a major market opportunity as the connecting link between public transit stops and people's doorsteps or transport within local communities. They are also cheaper and more pleasant to ride than the local buses i.e. don't involve sitting on top of other people with your knees somewhere behind your head. My design is built off of a standard mountain bike.
Tadpole:
A tadpole is a tricycle with the twin wheels in the front instead of back thus giving it a big head with a narrow tail and its name. Inspired by Smarty Hardy (http://www.smartyhardy.com/integrated_sh.htm), I've been thinking a lot about suspension as a way to reduce stresses on the frame and wheels on vehicles carrying heavy loads on very rough roads. The following is a design for independent suspension on a tadpole using a simple trailing arm design. I would love to get a chance to try out my idea for homemade shock absorbers. Also included is a design for a simple center pivot. Usually people use headset bearings and a long "head tube" for this purpose, but I thought this would be easier and cheaper to manufacture.
Longtails:
The following are some pretty self-explanatory design for longtails built off of traditional mountain bikes. One is suspended, the other not. With the wheel way in the back, I'd be a little worried about fork failure under heavy loads ie. be careful if you build one of these. Building a truss on the fork Jeff Jones-style would be one remedy... but then you might just break the head tube or the down tube.
Again, to see higher res versions of these drawings, along with other designs and project photos, go here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/27342523@N06/sets/72157607517597124/

Man and machine.

Most of you folks out there taking the detour through worldbike.org have one interest in common. Bikes! So let's talk about them. I've been gathering my observations over my first three weeks here in Kenya. This entry is intended to be an introduction to the Kenyan cycling scene.

I've never seen anyone dressed quite like the fellow on the left but the way he's employing his bicycle is quite common. Humorously he was in a bit of a hurry to get to the market and though being quite friendly never broke stride except for this one moment when I snapped his picture. When I stopped to dig in my bag to get out pictures and then again for my camera he kept jetting ahead. I would come scooting up beside him holding my bike in one hand, pictures of Worldbike's past work in the other, dodging traffic, and trying to communicate in my very broken Swahili. Thankfully I wasn't chewing gum at the time or I probably would have ended up on the pavement tangled in my bike while he soared off obliviously to that place that was drawing him so urgently.

The bike that he's pushing is commonly called a Black Mamba in Kenya. That's in reference to both its color (always black) and its reputation for safety. Despite quite a variety of makers, they all look almost alike and have been made in India and China since the world began. These are the same bikes as China's quintessential Flying Pigeon (I don't know what other types of pigeon there are) bicycles. They are lugged framed single-speeds with cottered cranks, rod brakes, 28” wheels, a big centerstand kickstand, and fenders (this is 1930s technology). They often have double top tubes and are retrofitted domestically with a brace (of questionable effectiveness) on the front fork and a wide rear rack. They cost between $40 and $90 and typically must be immediately taken to a mechanic after purchase so that they can be reassembled “properly”. Most mechanics work on the ground with a tool box or sack full of broken bits and pieces of bikes and some exceptionally shoddy tools. The tools of choice are a hammer, a piece of railroad rail used as an anvil, and pliers. Incredible things are done with these implements with my favorite undoubtedly being the breaking and reassembling a chain using a nail as the driving pin. I could never be so deft.

Despite their similar appearances, the black mambas are different. Brand names like Neelam, made by the Indian company Seth Industries, are accompanied by the sub-titles “Super Strong” or “Heavy Duty”. These aren't just marketing hype, the bikes indeed are stronger and that is a result of the thicker walled tubes in the frame and fork construction. Wheels also are made to varying degrees of super-strongness with varying rim weights and spoke counts. The brand Raja is the cheapest and considered bottom of the barrel in terms of strength. Given the strength to weight ratio of these bikes in general, my impression is that the steel used in their construction is pretty low-grade (I'm thinking maybe from minimally-refined melted scrap). My other impression is that the motivation to continue producing these bikes is that the production facilities were paid off long ago and the marginal cost of their manufacture is next to nothing. Without anyone making any serious marketing push for a more modern bicycle, these bikes are enjoying both a default appeal and a very well established distribution network.

That being said, the mountain bike is making inroads. There are many more on the roads in Nairobi than there were when I was here even two years ago. Unfortunately, the venerable mountain bike (highly appropriate technology for the terrain) is receiving Walmart style treatment. Here are mountain bikes at Kenya's Walmart on steroids, Nakumatt (formerly Nakuru Mattress). The bikes are cheap (which is inevitable) but more importantly, like Walmart bikes, are poorly assembled and maintained. Decent tools and quality parts are not available. The result, I fear, is that a machine with great promise is never achieving its potential. What that means for its reputation over the coming years, I don't know.

Culturally, the bicycle is considered outdated and backwards technology used only by those who can't afford better. This of course creates an ironic and frustrating duality as 1) parts of the developed world back-pedal away from the automobile and awaken to the wonderful transformative power bicycles have on city spaces and life quality and 2) parts of the developing world make irreversible infrastructure decisions that exclude bicycles and alienate public transit (check out www.itdp.com and Bogotá, Columbia www.ebbc.org/?q=node/1218). All is not lost in Kenya though as an excellent opportunity for global cycling solidarity presents itself. I've been told by a (highly-biased) source that some members of the Nairobi middle-class are going through that traffic congestion induced metamorphosis and seeing bicycles as a choice mode of transport and exercise. I've also been told that for the first time a few members of the government are paying attention to bicycles for transportation. The biggest hurdle though is the extremely strong perception that bicycles are very dangerous. I suspect that this is true for the passive cyclist (the one who expects traffic to play the active role in avoiding collisions) as the congestion creates quite a competitive atmosphere. Personally, as an “active” cyclist (someone who rides like a kayaker, thriving on a kinetic and unpredictable travel corridor) Nairobi traffic is incredibly fun and non-threatening. The drivers are very alert and responsive (and generally not moving). There certainly are no bike lanes so cycling is best done amongst the vehicles instead of pinched on the shoulders.

Kenyan cycling doesn't have is a voice and a presence: what I see as the two arms of the cycling movement in the U.S. There are no Kenyan critical masses or messenger traffic thrashers or versions of the Thunderhead Alliance or League of American Bicyclists. From my observation, cyclists here have complaints but they don't have a cause. But they could... I sense simmering potential. The beauty of the cyclist personality is that it is sculpted by adversity. Cyclists are an ambitious, go against the tide, idealistic, forthright bunch. They are always ready to boil over given the chance. Here are my friends Lemash who deals in second-hand bikes and Toto who is currently organizing a Nairobi to Mombasa ride to raise money to purchase books. They are members of the underground Nairobi club cycling scene and will talk your ear off. Another friend, George (not pictured), is a 30-year veteran of Kenyan cycling, raced pro in Europe, coaches and promotes youth cycling, knows well the corruption that hobbles pro cycling in Kenya, is your man for rickshaws, ... The way everyone talks, they're all ready to be part of a movement, they just need a little bit of solidarity with the international cycling community to know the power of what they have to say. Let this be my invitation to the media to come here and cover the budding Kenyan cycling scene. It's a fascinating untold story.

But back to the bikes. If you want to buy a quality new bike in Kenya I know of only two places. They are both owned by Indians (the people with the import connections) and both are ungodly expensive. The real option are second-hand bikes. These are machines that are gleaned from scrap yards and landfills in the developed world and sent abroad. It sounds like a fantastic academic research project following this commodity chain. The explanation given to me is that brokers set up relationships with developed world discard points, pay some nominal fee per bike, put them all in a container and then, just like used clothes that are sold by the bale, sell the full container to another broker abroad. These bikes are then parted out to smaller dealers like Lemash. Right now the bikes in Kenya mostly come from landlocked Uganda (go figure). Looking at Lemash's stock it's pretty clear that these are bikes that were designated “not worth the money to fix” in their country of origin. They're good bikes but they need the serious work that his very talented fundi (employed mechanic) Vincent is busy applying to them. However, without spare parts available, there is often an inevitable “good enough” threshold that can't be overcome. Additionally, without tools available, Vincent is left with a toolbox only slightly surpassing the one described above.